The Role of Women in the Evolution of Watch Design
For much of watchmaking history, the contributions of women have been overshadowed by their male counterparts. While luxury brands have long marketed watches toward women, they often focused on aesthetics rather than craftsmanship, assuming that intricate movements were reserved for men. However, women have played a crucial role in the evolution of horology, from pioneering watchmakers like Caroline Murat—who commissioned the first wristwatch from Breguet in the 19th century—to modern female designers shaping the industry today.
The iconic Cartier Tank, pictured above, represents a pivotal moment in the relationship between women and fine watchmaking. Created in 1917 by Louis Cartier and inspired by the horizontal lines of military tanks from World War I, the Tank was revolutionary in its rectangular design during an era of round pocket watches. Though initially designed without a specific gender in mind, it quickly became popular among stylish women of the era, including fashion pioneer Coco Chanel, who wore hers with casual attire—a radical statement at a time when watches were considered formal accessories. The Tank's elegant proportions and versatility made it a favorite among influential women throughout the 20th century, from Princess Diana to Jackie Kennedy Onassis, helping to establish the idea that women could appreciate sophisticated timepieces beyond mere decoration.
Despite historical barriers, women are increasingly gaining recognition in key roles across the watch world. Female executives such as Catherine Rénier, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Carole Forestier-Kasapi, an award-winning movement designer, are breaking stereotypes and proving that women are just as passionate and skilled in the technical aspects of watchmaking as their male counterparts. Their influence is driving innovation in both movement technology and design, challenging the outdated perception that high horology is a male-dominated field.
Additionally, brands are beginning to rethink their approach to women's watches, moving away from the outdated "shrink it and pink it" philosophy. Instead of simply resizing men's watches or adding diamonds, companies are designing timepieces with women in mind, featuring complications like moon phases, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons in models made for female collectors. Independent brands, such as F.P. Journe and MB&F, have embraced this shift, proving that mechanical sophistication can appeal to all genders.
The evolution of women's relationship with watches can be seen in how brands now market their collections. Where once advertisements portrayed women's watches as mere jewelry or gifts from men, today's campaigns increasingly highlight the technical excellence and heritage that appeal to knowledgeable female collectors. This shift acknowledges that women appreciate watches not just for their appearance but for their craftsmanship, history, and mechanical ingenuity.
As more women take leadership roles and gain recognition for their contributions, the watch industry is becoming more inclusive. With a growing number of female collectors, enthusiasts, and professionals, the future of watchmaking will likely see an even greater balance of representation—both in the watches themselves and in the people who design and create them.